Care and Handling of Photographs

 

Long-term Storage of Photograph Prints Requires Special Care and Attention

 

You have spent many hours taking those special snapshots of people, places and things.   You may even want to share these treasures with others–now and in the future.  Family history and geneolgy are captured in these photographs. 

In addition to your photographic efforts, you may already have painstakenly sorted and categorized these precious records of memorable moments in time.  But the question remains: How do you store these photographs for the long term?

Here are a few tips to help you keep these treasures in good shape, and available to your posterity for many years to come.

  • In addition to sorting and organizing your photographs, you must also take the time to identify, label or mark each shot with at least this minimum information if you have it.  We recommend you write this valuable information on the back of the photograph:
    • Use a permanent “acid-free” marker like a ”Sharpie®” pen.
      • When writing on the back of the photo.   Don’t use ballpoint pens , or any other hard point instrument–they require excess pressure–which could damage the photo. 
    • Person or persons in the photo from left to right.
    • Date and place where the photo was taken. 
    • Ages of the individuals in the photo.
    • Any other information that would be helpful to others in the future in knowing what this photograph represents.
  • Never store your photographs in those ”sticky magnetic” photo albums.  This is a sure invitiation for trouble in time.
  • Avoid handling photographs–especially older ones–because of their age they can be more fragile. 
  • As much as possible keep from touching the image side of the photograph.
    • Hold photos on the edges to keep oils from your hands getting on the photo’s surface.  This can cause damage, or allow the collection of dirt, on your pictures.
    • Use light soft cotton gloves to aid in handling your photographs.   This will help avoid contaminating  them with body oils.  This is how museum archived pictures are usually handled.
    • Older or damaged photos may require additional support  when handling them.

Ligh, heat and moisture are the sure destroyers of photograhs.  Eliminating them, or at least minimizing them is very helpful for their long term survival.  The way in which you store your photographs is an important preservation process.  Storing your photos in a climate controlled environment is optimimal, but most likely impractical for most of us. This would require purified air, a constant temperature (65°-75°F), and maintaining relative humidity (35-50%).  Generally, most of us have a cool closet, which can be a reasonable substitue.  Avoid basements (too moist), garages (too many uncontroled variables) and attics (generally too hot or to cold).

In addition to these requirements, if you can maintain them as much as possible, keep them from being exposed to direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays for any extended period.  Storage containers (boxes, albums, etc.) should be free of acidic elements–like glues and adhesives, paper and cardboard.  Use lignin free, acidic neutral (PH of 7-9), and buffered paper. 

Note: When using your photos for scrapbook projects care must be given to the embellishments and other products you use to spice up your pages. They, too, should be acid free or future damage could occur to your photographs. Using acid free sheet proctectors is benefical too.

Photo albums (acid free) are a good place to store photographs.  Boxes (metal or paper (acid free) are also appropriate.  Pictures should not be too loose or too packed in these containers.  A “filler” should be used in boxes where there are not enough photos to fill it.  Pictures should not be free to “slosh” around.  They can be damaged.  Plactic sleeve not made from PVC can be used–sandwhich bags are a reasonable substitute.  Layering photgraphs with a buffered or 100% cotton bond paper can be helpful. 

Photos that are 8 x 10 or larger should be stored flat inside boxes that will accommodate their size.  Acid free filler should be added to keep the photographs from bounce around to reduce the possiblity of damage to their edges.  Pictures that are 8 x 10 or smaller can be stored in albums or stood vertically in standard size boxes to fit their size.  These photo boxes can be stacked, but good labling is a must so you know what’s in each box . . . this lessens the need to handle fragile pictures.

Note:  Keep from using other elements that can cause damage to your precious photo memories: staples, rubber bands, paper clips, transparent or masking tape, to name a few.

Last, but not least, you may consider the use of a storage company that can keep your photograph ready to be printed.  You may want to have your photos scanned and downloaded to one of these services.  We highly recommend Shutterfly.com  Check out what they offer–both in storage and other useful services.  Time and money well spent in our opinion.

With the information provided you should be able to provide many years of enjoyment from the use of your valuable picture collection.

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Ron on September 28th, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -

Embellish with Liquid Applique

Add Texture and Depth to Your Scrapbook Pages with Liquid Applique


uchida liquid applique Embellish with Liquid AppliqueLiquid Applique is a fun three-dimensional way to embellish your scrapbook pages.  This treatment helps lift segments up off your page.  The liquid applique procedure helps give character to your stamps, letters, die cut shapes, and free-hand writing (names, word, or phrases).  You can highlight specific areas of a shape, a picture or other die cut embellishments.  The applique will help lift up items like candles on a cake.

How to Apply Liquid Applique:

  • The fine tip of the Liquid Applique allows you to apply the product sparingly.
  • Gently squeeze the tube over the area you wish to applique.  Fill in the area as needed.
  • If writing use the applique as you would a pen–being sure to not over do it.
  • Liquid Applique requires drying time–overnight for best results–use a heat gun to speed the drying process if you wish.
    • Be careful not to over heat or scorching will occur.  The applique can also become uneven or lose its adhering property to the paper.
  • Add scrapbook extra fine scrapbook glitter to give the item a “sparkle look.”  This application should be done before drying or after heating.

Like so many other scrapbook ideas and products, you will be well served to experiment with this Liquid Applique product and technique a little.  Using scrap pieces first will help you eliminate not being happy with your effort on a page you’d prefer not to have your experiment on.  This is a fun technique, but Liquid Applique should be used in moderation.

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Ron on August 3rd, 2009 | File Under Embossing, Helpful Products, Ideas | No Comments -

Borders for Scrapbook Pages

border page Borders for Scrapbook Pages

Scrapbook Page with Border from www.stickersnfun.com

Adding a vertical or horizontal border to your scrapbook page can add a special overall look.  Using a border is a great way to reinforce or enhance the theme focus of your page.

Consider the inclusion of a border when do your layout to ensure space is allotted to this fun element.  Like most everything surrounding scrapbooking, you have a lot of freedom to be creative in this embellishment option.

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Ron on June 19th, 2009 | File Under Ideas, Scrapbooking | No Comments -

A Scrapbook Sticker Technique to Use

The world of scrapbook stickers can sometimes feel shallow and bland.  Sticker manufacture’s have been going to great lengths to increase their selections available, and enhance their usefulness with creative offerings.  Their efforts are commendable, and we encourage them to continue, but this doesn’t diminish our ablility to be equally as creative in our use of their special products. 

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Ron on June 18th, 2009 | File Under Ideas, Scrapbooking | No Comments -

Making Deckle Edges on Scrapbook Pages

USING THE DECKLE EDGE

Deckle-edged Paper Image from Green Field Paper

Deckle-edged Paper Image from Green Field Paper

Many artisans (scrapbookers included) like the look of the deckle edge . . . that soft feathered look on the edges of paper and card stock, where the appearance has a torn or unfinished look, and presents a special appearance all by itself.

The deckle edge is the ragged feathered edge on sheets of newly formed paper–made in the paper making process. There is no clean cut line, but instead, the soft ragged edge is left on the paper. In a more formal finished product this deckle edge would be cropped off.

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Ron on January 1st, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -

Embossing Handmade Paper

EMBOSSING HANDMADE PAPER

IS A GREAT IDEA

The embossed Lincoln Postcard is from Seaport Autographs

The embossed Lincoln Postcard is from Seaport Autographs

One of the paper effects you may want to use!

When talking about embossing, one of the methods that can be used is when you create handmade paper. While the newly made paper is still wet and malleable you can add impressions, which is another way to emboss paper. You can best accomplish this when the paper is couching or curing (drying) by using any of the techniques already mentioned.

Embossing is simply a method of creating a raised or recessed effect to your paper. Many greeting cards use this technique to alter the surface of the card and adding an elegant sculptured look. You too can add this feature to your new handmade paper.

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Ron on January 1st, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -

Making Hand Made Paper

HANDMADE PAPER

Here are some direction on how to:
“Make Your Own Paper”

As a scrapbooker, you have a clear appreciation for the need and use of paper. However, a little understanding of what paper is and is not should be helpful in clarifying the homemade paper making process, as well as using it in and for your scrapbook pages and albums.

Paper became very prominent during the advent of the movable type printing press. Prior to that time, writing was done on parchment (vellum), on the stretched and processed skins of calves, goats and lambs (parchment), (papyrus) which is made from the inner part of the papyrus stem, and (rice paper) which is made from spirally sliced pith of a tree native to Taiwan. Paper, as we know it today, is made from cellulose fiber.

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Ron on January 1st, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -

Theorem Painting with Scrapbook Pages

THEOREM PAINTING

For those who like an extra challenge and something different!

The nice thing about scrapbooking and card making is the great flexibility you have to create your pages or cards. We know we can use stickers, cutouts, rubber stamps, and other goodies to make a real special page.

For those of you who like a challenge, and are seeking something a little different as a background for your pages, have you considered stencil layering? That is what theorem painting is all about.

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Ron on January 1st, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -

Creative Ideas for Scrapbooking

GETTING NEW IDEAS

IS THE LIFE BLOOD OF

SCRAPBOOKERS

light bulb-idea

Scrappers are for ever looking for new ideas to use. There are a myriad of ways to present a scrapbook page or album. Your imagination is your guide. If you follow the basic rules of scrapbook page design then you should be all right in the overall bigger picture (pardon the pun). In this section of the site you will be presented with a number of ideas you can use that hopefully are informative or different than what you may be used to. Some ideas are hobby activities you could do exclusively–they don’t necessarily have anything to do with scrapbooking itself, but lend themselves to being used by creative and daring scrapbookers . . . we assume you are one of them.

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Ron on January 1st, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -

Directions on Making a Deckle Mold Frame

DECKLE EDGE MOLD FRAME

Directions on Making a Deckle Mold Frame

The size of the paper your mold and deckle will make depends on the size frame you choose to use (or make). The illustration does not have any dimensions. This will allow you to use what ever size you prefer–remember the size of the paper is based on the interior size of your mould and deckle and the size of mould and deckle you make must fit easily into your pan/vat.


deckle mould drawing

Once your size is decided upon, cut your wood pieces to the sizes required to make all sides. You should have two equal pieces for each opposite side–make sure the interior dimensions of the pieces, when they are layed out, are the size of the paper sheet you desire to make–regardless of whether you are making a square or rectangle frame. IT IS THE INSIDE DIMENSION THAT COUNTS.

Because you are making both a mold and deckle you will need to double the pieces and make two exact frames.

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Ron on January 1st, 2009 | File Under Ideas | No Comments -