Add Texture and Depth to Your Scrapbook Pages with Liquid Applique

Liquid Applique is a fun three-dimensional way to embellish your scrapbook pages.  This treatment helps lift segments up off your page.  The liquid applique procedure helps give character to your stamps, letters, die cut shapes, and free-hand writing (names, word, or phrases).  You can highlight specific areas of a shape, a picture or other die cut embellishments.  The applique will help lift up items like candles on a cake.

How to Apply Liquid Applique:

• The fine tip of the Liquid Applique allows you to apply the product sparingly.
• Gently squeeze the tube over the area you wish to applique.  Fill in the area as needed.
• If writing use the applique as you would a pen–being sure to not over do it.
• Liquid Applique requires drying time–overnight for best results–use a heat gun to speed the drying process if you wish.
  • Be careful not to over heat or scorching will occur.  The applique can also become uneven or lose its adhering property to the paper.
• Add scrapbook extra fine scrapbook glitter to give the item a “sparkle look.”  This application should be done before drying or after heating.

Like so many other scrapbook ideas and products, you will be well served to experiment with this Liquid Applique product and technique a little.  Using scrap pieces first will help you eliminate not being happy with your effort on a page you’d prefer not to have your experiment on.  This is a fun technique, but Liquid Applique should be used in moderation.

One of the real challenges we face as scrapbookers is to find books and albums to place our creative handy work into.  Some albums don’t allow the addition or reduction of pages . . . those that do means you have to purchase extra pages to add to your book.

Themed scrapbooks are the most difficult to deal with when it comes to finding a suitable album or scrapbook to use.  The PhotoBook is a great answer to this dilemma.   Now you can construct hardcover scrapbooks or photo albums you want with just the right number of pages.  This tool is very versatile in terms of the size of your scrapbook or photo book.

We recommend you take a look at their videos – click here.

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ENHANCE SCRAPBOOK PAGES USING
DRY or RELIEF EMBOSSING METHOD

Like mechanical or hand press embossing, dry or relief embossing is creating a raised, or depressed impression, on your scrapbook page or card. In this process, however, the impression is done with the aid of a stylus and stencil. If you don’t have, or don’t want to use stencils you can “free hand” your embossing . . . but it takes some practice to do it well.

One of the benefits of this form of embossing is being able to place it where you want on a page or card–similar to “wet” embossing, where you use rubber stamps, ink and powders heated to create your embossed image. (See “Wet Embossing” for more specific details.)

The tools you will need for this form of embossing is a stylus. They often come with different sized balls on each end of the holder. Each ball size allows you to work with different paper weights. Then you will need stencils (either brass or plastic) with which to do your tracing from. And, last but not least, a light box (or some other back-lit source that will allow sufficient light through its hard surface . . . in a pinch you could use a window or patio door, if you have enough light coming through the glass. You might have to experiment some with this form of light source to be sure you can see the details of your stencil. If you plan to do a lot of dry embossing the investment in a good light-box will be well worth it.

The process is simple. You are going to trace around a stencil using your stylus. As you make your tracing it will push the paper or card up from the flat surface. Now that isn’t so hard is it?

Let’s be a little more specific and detailed in the procedure.

With your stencil chosen, you need to place it on the opposite side of the paper or card you are going to emboss. With the stencil positioned where you want it on the page or card, tape it down to hold it in place as you do your tracing. There are special tapes for this purpose. Using blue painter’s masking tape which has a light tackiness to it works fine. In the event you only have regular masking tape, daub it up and down on your pant leg a few times to remove some of its tackiness. You don’t want your page or card ruined with tearing paper off as you release your stencil. When you do remove the tape–any tape–do so carefully.

With your stencil securely taped in place on the back side of the page or card you are embossing–because the embossed impression will come out on the front side, you want to trace around your stencil. In essence, with your stylus you are going to push the paper or card through the stencil’s opening. As you trace your stencil using your stylus you will push the paper forward. If you turn the paper over you will see and feel a raised impression–a mirror image of your stencil. this is the embossing.

If you want your impression to be “debossed” of inverted into your paper or card follow the same process above accept you place the stencil on the front of your page or card.

Which ball on your stylus tool do you use to stencil with. That depends on the paper medium you are using. Light paper is more prone to tear if you use the smaller ball–so, use the larger one. Heavier paper and card stock will mor easily accommodate the smaller ball. Here again, you may need to experiment a little. The pressure you have to use to get your impression will have a great deal to do with which ball you can use for any project.

As you are doing your tracing, you may find the ball grabs or doesn’t move easily. To help avoid this problem–it happens to all of us–rub the ball on some wax. Wax paper works fine for this purpose. In fact, you could lay a piece of waxed paper over your stencil as you do your tracing . . . it should stop this problem. Again, the pressure you apply will also have a certain amount of affect here, but you may need to press hard to get the desired impression you are after.

Once you have completed your tracing, carefully remove your stencil. At this point you could, for a special effect, place the stencil over the newly raised impression and add some soft color to it . . . using chalk, sponge daubers with ink or paint. Be sure to clean the stencils after using them as your coloring template.

Fiskar's ShapeBoss Embossing Starter Kit

Fiskar's ShapeBoss Mini

Fiskar Card Embossing System

There are some tools on the market to help you in this paper craft process. Fiskars is one of those companies who have been devoted to specific paper craft products–relief embossing using a stylus is one of them. They have created the ShapeBoss™ Embossing System Starter Set, the Mini ShapeBoss™ and the CardBoss™ to assist you in your efforts. You can purchase these and the other tools noted above at most craft and scrapbooking supply outlets–stores, or online. See the links to two online craft suppliers.

There you have it, a simple clean process of adding a special look to your scrapbook page or greeting card. With a little practice you will easily become very proficient at it. Don’t be afraid to do some experimenting in the process. You may just find something neat that adds just that right touch to your project.

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DIE CUTTING

Thank goodness for die-cutting. If you had to cut out all of the little things you wanted to put on your pages most of you would have given up this wonderful hobby. If you have the “patience of Job” you may be happy cutting a myriad of little things with a pair of scissors. Scissors have their place, but why use them if you can cut things with precision and consistency. Turn this tedious task into something that is fast, accurate and fun.

There are packages of pre-cut items. The real goal of every serious scrapper is to have a die-cutting machine of your own. You can if your willing to pay the price, and it’s not as bad as you think. Besides, what is your time worth when it comes to putting pages and cards together.

For those of you who may not be familiar with die-cutting, think of what a cookie cutter does. Each cookie is cut to the same size and shape. Die-cutting does the same thing only with different materials than cookie dough. You can make die-cuts from: paper, card stock, self-adhesive rubber (for making rubber stamps); sheet magnet; foil, static cling vinyl, fabric, felt, thin metal, paper wood, heat and shrink plastic, poly foam, sponge, leather, faux fur, and much much more. Some of these machines will even do embossing (Go to Scrapbook Embossing).

Here are some of the die-cutting machines and systems. Click on each item for a link to see more specific details on the products and systems:

Sizzix Die Cut Machine

Sizzix Sidekick Machine

Sizzix BIGkick Shape-Cutting Embossing Machine

Cuttlebug Machine

Cricut Personal Electronic Cutter

Xyron Personal Cutting System

Bigshot Die-Cutting/Embossing System

Wizard Die Cut & Embossing Machine

WET or HEAT EMBOSSING

If you already know the basics of rubber stamping, then half your education in this process is complete.

For those of you who are not familiar with stamping, we suggest our quick course to learn about:

“The Basics of Rubber Stamping.“

If, however, you feel well versed and experienced at rubber stamping, you can get started now to learn about this fun and useful embossing technique. You will surely add to your embellishing capabilities when you are finished. Remember this is a basics overview, but should give you enough information to get you started.

Heat embossing can turn a very ordinary stamped image into a stunning dimensional work of art. You can do this with the help of embossing powders and a heat source–usually a heat gun. Because of the versatility of this technique, you expand the breadth and scope of your ability to embellish your scrapbook pages and cards. With the right embossing powder you can get different finished images: glittery, matte, glossy or iridescent. You’ll need to experiment a little to find what suits you.

Supplies Needed to Get Started

• Rubber stamps you want to use on your project.
• Paper to stamp on – and extra paper to hold the excess embossing powder you shake off.
• Ink(s) in ink pad(s) – one color only is recommended to begin.
• A heat source – preferably a heat gun.
• Small brush – a small artist paint brush works well to help remove excess embossing powder.

• Anti-static medium.

The Heat Embossing Process

The paper you want to stamp and emboss may be loaded with static, which means embossing powder could end up sticking to areas where you don’t want it. To help eliminate some of this static, wipe your paper with an anti-static medium first–before you get started stamping. A fabric softener sheet works well, but there are products at craft stores you can purchase that also take care of this problem.

If you are using a heat gun as your heating source, having it plugged in and warming up will help speed your embossing process. There is more on heating further on in the article. One word of caution: don’t let your heat gun sit too long unused, or you may burn up your heating element. If you find you’re taking longer to get to the heat process than you planned, unplug or turn off your heat heater (this is if you are using a heat gun).

This is a good point to talk a little bit about what inks to use, their benefits and short comings. You can use most any wet/damp ink, but those that dry the slowest give you the most time to work with your powder and image.

• Dry based ink, while usable, dries quickly. This means you have to work quickly–maybe too quickly to allow you to get your stamped image adequately covered with embossing powder and get your heat applied.
• Pigment based (colored) inks work well. They do not dry as fast. The color of the ink isn’t as important because if you are using colored embossing powder, the powder’s color will become the dominant color–so choose wisely the embossing powder colors you prefer for your project(s).
• Pigment free (colorless) inks also work well, and give your embossing powder a more true color once it is heated and melted because the only color showing will be that of the powder–again, choose your powder colors well. These are often referred to as embossing inks. They, too, dry slowly.
• Watercolors and colored markers don’t work. Markers dry too fast, and watercolors are too wet–don’t dry fast enough and spread out too much.

With your rubber stamp and ink chosen, you are ready to begin. Place the rubber stamp you’ve chosen onto the stamp pad. Load your stamp up good…moving is up and down on your ink pad a few times to help ensure good coverage on your stamp. Place the inked stamp onto your paper, page or card where you want it. Press down firmly, but don’t wiggle the stamp around or you could get smudges and ink where you don’t want it . . . you could obliterate fine points of your stamp image with the movement. Lift the stamp straight up from your paper or card stock.

Next, take the embossing powder you have wisely selected and sprinkle it generously over the entire stamped image area. When you feel there is sufficient powder covering your image, lift up the stamped paper or card and pour off the excess power onto an extra sheet of paper–to be poured back into the powder jar. You could skip the extra paper part and pour it directly back in to the jar, but you have other things to do before your ink dries, so go the extra paper route to help speed the finishing–heat process.

Use your paint brush to brush off any powder that continues to stick on your paper/card where you don’t want it. Once you apply your heat, it will become a permanent item on your page . . .  so be forewarned.

With a heat gun (already warmed-up and ready to go) move the heat gun–keeping it an inch or two above your image. You may need to play with the distance from your powder. You want it to melt, but not burn your paper/card. Apply even heat to the image. The heat will melt the powder making it shiny, creating an elegant raised image of your stamp.

If you don’t have a heat gun (a preferred method):

• You can use a bread toaster–on high heat setting with the handle down to turn the toaster on. Move your stamped paper/card over the toaster’s top–WITH THE POWDERED IMAGE SIDE UP. Keep your paper/card moving, and be prepared to lift it up away from the heat to avoid scorching as needed. The process is complete when all of the embossing powder is melted.

• You could also use a hot plate, electric light or electric stove burner. Just follow the same process and cautions as for the toaster method above.

• DON’T USE A HAIR DRYER. In addition to having a blower that will spread your powder everywhere, they generally don’t give off the heat needed to melt the embossing powders (200 – 300°).

Recommended hand held embossing heater guns:

• Marvy Uchida Heat Embossing Tool
• EK Coloriser Heat Tool
• Darice Supert Heat Tool

Beware that all heating tools are subject to burning out. If they get over heated for too long you could ruin the heating element. Be sure and read the manufactures instructions and safety rules thoroughly before using your heat gun. Also, keep the heat gun away from items that could burn or scorching.

All of the tools recommended are available at Joann.com! And at other craft and scrapbook stores. They run around $18 – $25 a piece.

DEBOSSING

“Flip those dry embossed images over, and make something debossed.”

Most of us have taken embossing (the raising of an image on a page) as very elemental. There are many articles on embossing, including several on this site:

• Embossing
• Rubber Stamp Basics for Embossing
• Mechanical Hand Tools
• Mechanical Machine Embossing
• Wet or Heat Embossing
• Die Cutting and Embossing Machine
• As well as some ancillary articles :
  • Chalk It Up and
  • Chalking Techniques and Tips

So, what is “debossing?” No, it’s not unbossing! As the quote above indicates debossing is the reverse of embossing–simple enough. For our scrapbook efforts we would “push-in” (indent or depress) the images from the front of a page rather than “push-out” (lift up) an image from the back side of a page.

Another way to express what each method does:

Emboss (the most frequently used process) raises or lifts an image up from the paper’s level surface or face.

Deboss lowers or impresses (engraves) an image below the paper’s level surface or face.

Miltary “dog tags” are a good example of debossing.

We see the most use for debossing from a professional perspective . . . like invitations or business cards to name two.

These images are from Alden Grace fine Stationery

These two examples are created using heat, pressure and two dies (one recessed, the other a relief or accepting die). The deboss material is pressed between these two dies.

This image is from Universal Metal Marking

This debossing provides a great affect on your page. It gives you greater flexibility and creativity. You add variety to accent your scrapbook pages by debossing. There is the ability to add a sense of elegance to your pages.

DRY DEBOSSING

(Free Hand Method)

Image from eInvite.com

Debossing is the reverse side of embossing. The image is depressed into the paper or card stock . . . where the image is lifted up from the paper’s surface in embossing.

Tools and Supplies you’ll need:

• Light table (a bright window is a good substitute)
• Templates (Brass is the preferred type, but plastic will work –just not as durable)
• Stylus Tool
• Card Stock (regular paper is too light to hold an impression and tears easily in the debossing process.)
• Note: Handmade paper works extremely well. Also our article on “Embossing handmade paper” may be helpful.
• A lubricant on your card stock to allow the stylus to move easily. Rubbing your card stock with wax paper works well.

The Process

Follow these easy steps to complete your debossing project:

1. Lubricate your card stock as noted above. You only need to do this in the area you are debossing.

2. Lay your template on you light table (turned on) or tape it to a bright window.

3. Place your card stock face up over your template where you want your image depressed.

4. Using your stylus trace the outline of the areas of your template you want depressed.

5. Fill in the remainder of your template image with your stylus to the extent you want the area or image debossed.

6. Add additional debossed images as desired using the process steps above.

Your debossed image(s) will add creativity, elegance, diversity and variety to your cards and scrapbook pages.

We’d like to see some of your handy work. Send us a email with your examples you’d like to share.

SCRAPBOOK EMBOSSING

USING MECHANICAL IMPRESSION TOOLS

Mechanical/Machine Embossing

With the mechanical or machine embossing method, you rely on the benefits and functions of a machine or tool to create your embossed impressions. This is similar to the hand held embosser only the machine will provide you with one or several embossed impressions on a page.

The use of these machines greatly expands your embossing capabilities. These machines, made for crafters, are easy to operate. The manufacturer’s have, for the most part, provided a great selection of inserts, dies or templates . . . with just about anything you’d want in the way of embossed impressions. Where they don’t have a die or template to meet your needs, there is still the Hand Tooled Reliefing you can do.

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SCRAPBOOK EMBOSSING

USING MECHANICAL HAND IMPRESSION TOOLS

When the term “embossing” is used, most people think of using a press of some sort to lift an image on a chosen medium (paper, cloth and metal). This is true, but not the only method for scrapbookers–see “Wet Heat Embossing.“

For this article we will focus our attention on the mechanical method of embossing–using tools to add the relief and rise to our images. For simplistic sake, what you envision in your mind when we talk about embossing, is the raised seal you see notary public’s affix to their signature using a hand crimping tool. This is the process–simple, huh?

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CHALKING TECHNIQUE and TIPS

Chalk Art

In the article “Chalk It Up!” we learn the basics of what chalking is and what to acquire in the way of supplies. You want to pay particular attention to the “Beginner’s Primer” in that article. Starting out right will be most helpful.

A couple of reminders about chalk as you begin to embellish your pages:

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